This Article first appeared in
AAC(UK) Newsletter 171
published Autumn 2006
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Last updated 04 December 2007
Ski Touring in Arctic Russia
by John Hardwick
## Note: although this article appeared in the AAC(UK) Newsletter, it is not about an AAC(UK) Meet ##
In April 2006 we had hoped to go skiing in Iran but, with concern over their nuclear programme, we cancelled. However as we had all booked time off, alternatives for an exotic trip were considered; we opted for Russia's Kola Peninsula, that is within the Arctic circle, to the east of Finland.
Geologically it is part of the Baltic Shield that- comprises ancient Precambrian rocks that have been so eroded that the topography of the land is generally low and flat. Kola was uninhabited except for nomadic Saami until the 20th century. A Finnish expedition crossed the peninsula in 1897 and explored the mountain region of Khibiny and investigated its unusual geology. The region owes its origin to some large volcanoes that erupted in the Devonian age. Some of the molten magma crystallized slowly below the surface and formed the world's largest alkaline igneous intrusion. It is composed of syenite and has spectacular mineral deposits. The syenite was more resistant to subsequent erosion, leaving mountains that protrude about 800m above their surroundings. The glacial erosion of the last ice age left the high plateaux edged by steep cirques, not dissimilar from the Cairngorms. The massif is about 30km wide and bounded by the lakes of Imandra and Umba that lie to the west and east, respectively. The Russian geologist, Fersman, discovered apatite ore (used for fertilizer) in the south of the massif and mining was developed in the 1920s as one of Stalin's Gulags. Until spring, snow covers the region from summits to valleys and it is unpopulated, so well suited as a wilderness skiing destination.
To reach it we travelled on the world's most northerly railway line. that runs from St Petersburg to Murmansk. We disembarked at Apatity (named after the mineral) and took a short bus ride to the mining town of Kirovsk that is remarkably one of the nearest ski resorts to Moscow. Our first day was spent getting our ski legs back, using the lift system there. An examination of the snow pack showed layers of granular snow below the more compact surface, so the avalanche danger was consider-able on the steeper slopes. In fact during our stay some snow boarders were killed in an avalanche while skiing off piste in the resort. Because of the snow pack we were limited in our choice of slopes but these were generally 25° and up to 35° for the start of some descents.
From Kirovsk to the north there is a defile that rises gently to the Kukisvumchorr pass at 479m. Beyond the pass the wide Kuniyok valley descends to the north and together these two valleys divide the massif in two. The highest summits of around 1100m lie either side of this divide and have old Saami names ending in 'chorr', meaning mountain.
Our first excursion was to climb into a steeper parallel valley that turns west and up to the Ramsay pass (743m), named after the geologist of the 1897 expedition. From the pass we skied down into the valley of the Malaya Belaya River that flows west into the Imandra Lake. Some Russian reps of our tour had carried supplies up the valley and set up a large heated tent and camp fire for us. The camp was in the stunted birch and pine forest that reaches upto about 400m altitude.
The next day we had blue skies so we climbed two prominent summits that lie at the head of a northern tributary of the Malaya Belaya. The highest was Mt. Fersman (1178m), named after the geologist. From the summits there were views west over to Imandra Lake and east to the highest part of the massif. We had two steepish descents in the untracked snow. To return to camp we crossed a spur that descends from the high plateau of Yudichvumchorr (1201m), giving views of its spectacular western ramparts.
The following day it was cloudy and snowing lightly. We retraced our tracks from two days previous to the cirque containing the Ramsay pass. The head of the valley was blocked by Mount Petrelius, named after Ramsay's cartographer, but its eastern col gives access to the northern part of the massif. The col was quite steep towards the top and its ascent necessitated taking off skis and kicking bucket steps in the snow. We skied down the other side to the Kuniyok valley where some old geologists' huts served as our base for the remainder of the tour, a trek of some 20km from our camp. The 'accommodation was basic, with no running water, but excellent meals were provided by our Russian cook, Svetlana, who had arrived from Kirovsk. Transport is possible over the Kukisvumchorr pass by tank! In addition there was a sauna with an icy dip in the river that allowed some semblance of cleanliness. Being a mixed party and British, swimming costumes were de rigeur and hence the bikinis of the title.
For two days we made excursions to the east with ascents of Rischorr (1070m) and Kaskasnyunchorr (1101m). Their southern sides, exposed to the sun had converted to give some steepish firm slopes to ski. The steep west-ern face of Rischorr had not been exposed and we were able to put in some tracks in powdery snow in a descent directly down to the huts. Koelpoor (902m) we left alone as in 1972 and 1984 kiloton nuclear bombs were exploded underground below it, for "peaceful purposes".
To the west are the mountains of Chasnachorr (1190m) traditionally taken as the highest summit and Putelichorr (1111m). These provided good day tours with some firm snow and a light powder covering.
Trips such as ours are helping to develop the region as a holiday destination which is great for the locals but will mean more crowds and skidoo ascents of these unspoilt summits in the future. Our trip was arranged by guide, Jim Blyth, in association with Jagged Globe.
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Last updated: 04 December 2007