The 100 mile trek that separates Greenland's principal airport from the coastal community of Sisimut does not cross the icecap, does not involve much in the way of height gain, and is relatively easy to organise oneself, but it does require survival of potentially serious river crossings, rough going and carrying all supplies for camping the week or ten days that it will take. Some waymarks exist and outside the boggy stretches there is something of a trodden trail through the arctic scrub but with every kind of weather possible, navigation demands concentration. There is a string of often very small shelter huts. There is no mobile phone coverage away from the start and finish so if in serious trouble you would have to rely for assistance from another walker, or perhaps a local hunter, happening to pass by.

The walking season is naturally a short one. By mid June the thaw is rapidly removing snow cover and the flowers are out, but the water crossings are at their most difficult. If you hate midges then you may prefer to let the long days of the summer weeks pass in favour of the autumn colours in late August and September when the nights draw in and frosts become more frequent. At the airport end of the route excursions up onto the main icecap are possible, while reindeer and musk oxen should be seen as they browse the hillsides and bottoms.

Paddy Dillon's pages include practical guidance on maps, and the extent to which local purchasing of fuel can be relied upon at the starting point, as well as general background information. If you hanker after unfrequented routes then the author's enthusiasm for this wild area should start you planning.

Anthony Jones