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A volunteer is sought to assume complete editorial control of the Club’s quarterly Newsletter from the end of 2011, soliciting content, selecting that which is most appropriate, liaising with our proof-reader and interfacing directly with the graphics designer who takes care of layout. If this challenge is of genuine interest to you, please contact the Club Secretary via the AAC(UK) Office for further details.  

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Book Review

Gogarth North

Edited by Panton
Ground Up; distributed by Cordee 2008, Paperback . ISBN 978-0955441714, £18.95

As all you climbers out there know all too well, North Wales has a lot of climbing to offer. However, the glorious sea cliffs of Gogarth, situated on the western tip of Anglesey in North Wales, provide an impressive range of exciting traditional routes in a dramatic setting that matches any other sea cliff venue in the UK.

Gogarth North, a select guide and the second of such guides published by the Ground Up Publishing collective, has been long awaited. Long awaited because of the delay on the Climber’s Club definitive guide. It's been nearly twenty years since the last Gogarth guide by the Climbers Club and this has meant that with the addition of over 300 new routes on Anglesey, the publi- cation has been split into two volumes: North and South. The companion guide, due to be available in August 2009, in time for the lifting of the bird restrictions, covers the cliffs south from the South Stack lighthouse and around The Range to Rhoscolyn.

The Gogarth North volume has over 600 routes and full colour topos and maps throughout for all the main Gogarth Bay crags: Holyhead Mountain, Upper Tier, Main Cliff, Easter Island Gully, Wen Zawn, Flytrap Area, North Stack, Tsunami Zawn and Breakwater Quarry. In addition, it has sections for the quieter and lesser recognised North and East coast crags comprising Craig Badrig, Porth Llechog and the newly equipped sport climbing venues at Benllech and Fedw Fawr.


The initial chapters include information on the ethics and the environmental considerations of Gogarth climbing, the distinctive nature of the rock and a fully illustrated comprehensive historical section written by Martin Crook. The book contains a spectacular collection of atmospheric and inspiring action photo- graphic shots from some of the best climbing photographers around; infamous names such as Ray Wood, Jethro Kiernan, Glenn Robbins and Dave Kendall have all contributed to the visual additions. The volume has a graded list for all those ‘tickers’ out there.

Review by Dave Brown


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Last updated  22 May 2009