We used this book on our summer trip to the Alps, particularly in the Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and Grande Paradiso ranges. We were very impressed with several aspects of the book.

1) The layout was clear and precise with each mountain range divided into individual sections. At the start of each section there was an introduction to the range, a description of the available huts, approaches and relevant maps.

2) The colour photographs with the routes drawn onto them were a tremendous improvement on previous guides, although obviously snow conditions will vary yearly, as we found on the Dufourspitze. We used the guidebook to do the NW flank of the Grande Paradiso where we found the photographs very useful for difficult route finding on the Laveciau glacier.

3) The number of routes covered on each 4000m peak and the detail included in each route description were also impressive. The detailed information on the Italian ridge of the Matterhorn was particularly useful although we managed to double the timings quoted.

4) By far the most important aspect of the guide is the attention given to the descent from routes. Using information from this guidebook we decided to take two 60m ropes on the Dent du Géant and this enabled just three abseils from the summit and a return to the lift on time.

5) The discussion of what constitutes a peak and a subsidiary top gives a comparison of Martin Moran’s ideas with previous guides. A comprehensive tick list is included at the end!

I now rarely consult my old guidebook to the 4000m peaks because this book contains so much more information and therein lies the only slight fault: the weight of the book; we tended to get the relevant section photocopied.

Darrell Morgan