Walter Bonatti Refuge
By Pat Heathcote
This attractive, comfortable 84-bed refuge is located in Alpe Malatrà, at a height of 2025m, with stunning views across the valley to the Mont Blanc massif.
Our party of eight started from Plampincieux (1564m), a short drive or bus ride from Courmayeur. We walked along the beautiful Val Ferret to the Lavachey Hotel/ Restaurant for minestrone soup and chocolate pear cake and after a further short walk ascended about 450m on snowshoes through trees, emerging above the tree line and reaching the refuge. A warm welcome awaited us from the guardian Mara Rizzo and her daughter Sara, who have been there since the refuge opened in 1998. Dormitories typically hold about eight people, and hot showers and a drying room are available. Drinks, and later a delicious three-course meal, were served in the warm, airy dining room/bar.
You need to take a sheet sleeping bag with pillow cover, (or rent one for a few euros at the refuge), and a head torch to find your way around at night. Duvets and pillows are provided.
The refuge is open from mid-February to about 20th October, and from about 20th December to 10th January, although occasionally the valley (and the refuge) is closed because of avalanches. It is accessible only on foot, and although quiet in winter, gets extremely busy in the summer and you are advised to book ahead. (Tel 00 39 165 86 90 55). There are plenty of fine walks in the area in all seasons. As a snowshoer, you can climb 300m from the refuge up the mountain to a viewpoint below the Tête Entre Deux Sauts. The next day, you can snowshoe up the Malatrà valley before climbing up to the Col Entre Deux Sauts, a total ascent of about 500m, before returning to the refuge for a hot chocolate and descending to the valley. A wonderful place to stay!
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Last updated: 26 May 2010