Beginning in the Oztaler Alpen
by Gill Swales
“Are you sure?” The taxi driver seemed unconvinced by my destination as we drew up at the deserted offices of the OeAV in Innsbruck on a Sunday morning. As I waited outside I began to think he had a point. I had other doubts too. Did I have too much luggage? Might my pink climbing helmet be considered frivolous? And most importantly would I be able to keep up!?
Then mountain guide Jakob with fellow Basic-Rock-and-Ice-Course mountaineers Roger and Nigel arrived in a minibus and we were off - to the Braunschweiger Hutte in the Otztaler Alpen where we would be based for a week to undertake a beginner’s course in Alpine Mountaineering, organised by the Bergsteigerschule. For me, with lots of mountain-walking experience but limited experience on rock and glaciers, it seemed an ideal way to build up confidence, self-reliance and new skills.
With only 3 of us on the course we were to benefit immensely from Jakob’s expert tuition and guidance. To keep things interesting Jakob alternated the rock and ice elements of the course; so we would be having Rock Days and Ice Days.
Our First Ice Day introduced us to moving on glaciers, fixing belays in snow and ice, abseiling down an ice cliff on the glacier, climbing up the rope, and front pointing. Jakob made sure we all had a shot at everything, though when I realised we were to abseil off our Abalakov belays I was sceptical that a cord inserted into the snow would hold our weight, but of course it did! This prepared us for the Second Ice Day when we were to climb the nearby mountain, Linker Fernerkogel 3278m. Jakob relaxed that evening with a glass of beer, whilst we 3 prepared for the ascent by finding out about weather conditions, possible routes, recent ascents and planned our start time.
The weather was perfect, and when we reached the glacier in early shade it was time to rope up and put on crampons. “Who wants to lead?” asked Jakob. Noticing my avoidance tactics he chose me, sternly warning “No-one comes off the rope, not even for the toilet!” So I set off, and it was wonderful, snaking up the mountain, and once out in the sunshine studying the glacier for signs of crevasses, and finding the best route to the summit. The glittering view there took our breath away more than the ascent.
Our descent involved a detour to find a large crevasse to practice crevasse rescue. Reluctantly I jumped down into the beautiful blue-white ice, a Touching the Void moment, and waited on the end of the rope to be pulled out. Then as Roger leapt in, I had to take his weight, secure him and rescue him. He seemed remarkably cool for a man depending on a slightly panicky woman for his survival.
The First Rock Day introduced us to some easy bolted routes, with vast spaces beneath down to the valley. We learnt about knots, prusiks, pulleys, self-rescue techniques, and did more abseiling. For one who had previously not even grasped the figure of eight, Jakob tried the methods he used with children, so each knot came with a story. It helped!
That evening we practised knots on the terrace, as well as self-rescuing up the side of the hut: what would friends and colleagues say if I told them I was spending my holiday jumping into crevasses and actually enjoying tying knots? Again Jakob set us the task of planning our next Rock Day’s ascent: the Karleskogel Ridge 3107m. He cheerfully explained it was harder than the Skye Ridge, if shorter. He had lived in Scotland, so he should know. The weather was set to deteriorate so Jakob led to keep the pace up, and again we had a wonderful experience, with dizzying exposure and superb views, and an airy abseil at the end of the ridge onto a steep snow slope, which we ran down, barely able to stop. According to Nigel this was the scariest moment of the week
On our last day for a treat we set off for some vie ferrate (VF) lower down the valley. As we ascended the first VF the sound of a waterfall grew louder, until following Jakob round a corner we saw that the wires crossed a raging torrent of glacial meltwater, and whilst the others shouted with glee, I had to be cajoled across. It was like crossing the Steall Bridge, only more so: brilliant, of course.
The course had ended, and as I wended my way back to Innsbruck, Nigel and Roger set off to successfully conquer the Wildspitze 3772m and put into practice the skills learnt.
It was an excellent introduction to Alpine mountaineering, and would be a useful refresher course too. The hut was relaxed and friendly, and we were joined at our AAC-reserved table by various Germans and Austrians intrigued to learn that there is a British Sektion. I returned home determined to keep practising, and to learn some German. But what about my earlier doubts? Well, I kept up, although the men gallantly carried the ropes, my pink helmet received Jakob’s seal of approval and did I have too much luggage? Of course I did, but there is a handy goods lift up to the hut, and I managed to conceal my wardrobe excesses around the cosy wooden bedroom allocated to us.
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Last Updated 10 June 2010