This Article first appeared in
AAC(UK) Newsletter 185
published Spring 2010
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Photos by Gerry Becker
Kirschbaumeralm schutzhaus
Summit cross on Spitzkofel
Allmaier–Toni–Weg
on the Weittal Spitz
Allmaier–Toni–Weg
on the Weittal Spitz
Descent from Weittalspitz
to Kirschbaumer Alm
Laserzsee and Karlsbader Hut
from the Odkarscharte
Panorama klettersteig
on Grosse Sandspitze
Panorama klettersteig on
Sandspitze with Oberdrautal below
Panorama klettersteig
on Sandspitze
Laserze klettersteig
Lienzer Dolomiten Klettersteig
by Gerry Becker
The Lienzer Dolomiten south of Lienz in Osttirol are not as well known or heavily visited as other parts of the Dolomites but meet organizer Jane Hughes put together an intriguing 6 night, 2 hut itinerary with the potential of doing 10 klettersteig routes varying in difficulty from Grades A to D.
From our meeting point in Lienz, 700m, the group, minus one late arriving member, headed off in hot humid conditions to the Kirschbaumeralm Schutzhaus about four and a half hours away at 1902m. With an eye on darkening afternoon clouds three profusely perspiring members made it to the hut just as the rain began. Two less hasty members had to don waterproofs in the hot conditions to avoid a soaking by rain and perspiration.
Looking forward to a refreshing wash at the hut, we were dismayed to discover that the open air, outdoor washing facilities were cold mountain water only; however, a fussmassage consisting of golf balls in a wooden trough filled with cool water provided partial compensation. The talented accordion playing son of one of the hut staff plus some strudel and cold refreshments put us in the proper Tirolean mood. After the rain ceased the final member of the group arrived admitting she had cheated by using the taxi service part of the way to the hut.
On Monday we set off in warm sunny conditions to climb the Spitzkofel, 2718m via the Grade B Spitzkofel Klettersteig. This proved a good shakedown for getting kit sorted, technique refined and climbing legs exercised with the group making it to the summit in 3 hours and returning to the hut mid-afternoon. The following day in more warm sunny weather we undertook the more difficult Allmaier-Toni-Weg Klettersteig rated Grade B/C to the Weittalspitze, 2,539m. Again we made good time despite the heat, reaching the summit in three and a half hours. The route presented no real difficulties (at least for long-legged members!) and had a couple of exposed but well protected traverses.
Wednesday was transfer day with full rucksacks to the Karlsbader Hut 2260m about 3km to the west as the crow flies. Lacking wings we proceeded to undertake the Grade C Madonnen Klettersteig over the Grosse and Kleine Gamweisenspitzen, 2488m and 2285m. One of the most interesting features of this route is an exposed protected traverse along a narrow ledge to a 15 meter long wobbly cable-suspended foot bridge about two boot widths wide that crosses a deep gorge. The Grosse was gained in two and a half hours and the Kleine about an hour later. Great views in all directions on another hot sunny day. Reaching the Karlsbader Hut in mid-afternoon, some members made a hot shower their first priority while one brave soul took a plunge in the shallow pond beside the hut, figuring the larger Laserzsee would be too bone- chillingly cold even for a caving enthusiast.
On the next day we set off on the Grade C Panorama Klettersteig to the highest point on our meet, the 2772m Grosse Sandspitze. This was a long, grand ridge route with all manner of climbs, descents and traverses in a stunning setting with views all around.
Having procured a firm reservation for only two nights in one of the hut's lagers, on Friday we had to move our belongings into the dog- house. The doghouse being, in this case, the basement Winterraum which was occupied by a guide from the Bergsteigerschule and his well-behaved, if curious, dog. An amusing feature of this room was the maze of pipes bolted to the ceiling that allowed us to precisely monitor loo usage in the hut.
On this day half the group decided to try a new Klettersteig, not yet in the guide books, to Seekofel, while the long-legged team went off to the Grade C/D Laserz Klettersteig. This mostly vertical airy 380m climb took two hours (in the shade for a change) and left us wondering where we missed the overhang section shown in the guidebook. Perhaps we had our eyes closed at that point!
That evening at dinner in thanks for an enjoyable meet, organizer Jane was presented with a Karlsbader Hut signature undergarment that we hope will complement nicely her Klettersteig wardrobe.
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Last updated: 20 February 2010