Scottish Bothy Wanderings
by Mike Garrett
Prologue: In late Nov 2008 I spent 2 solo nights at the Tarf Hotel: a bothy situated well north of Blair Atholl. It was cold with lots of snow and rivers partially frozen over. Perhaps I should run a bothy trip as an AAC(UK) meet in May, with its long warm sunny days. The plan was hatched. It would be a two day weekend meet, traversing from Corrour station to Spean Bridge station using Staoineag bothy for the Saturday night. Although crossing remote country, it had several escape options and so was not too committing. I planned to do my own solo 2 day trip just prior to this.
Wednesday: I got a good deal on my train travel – an “Advance” ticket with railcard. This took me to Crianlarich Youth Hostel. Here the Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) weather forecast for the next few days was pretty bad - cold, sleet, snow and strong wind at high levels. To save weight/space, I had brought only one fleece. MWIS is usually pessimistic.
Thursday: I took the early train to Rannoch station. There was snow lying on hills down to 500m. The walk in to Ben Alder Cottage (bothy) involves little height gain but is about 20 km on terrain which ranges from good to bad. All the streams are bridged – except the very last one. The weather was variable with successive bands of cold rain and sleet sweeping through. Crucially, the streams (and Loch Ericht) were well up. I had the bothy to myself and the reputed ghost failed to show up.
Friday: At 05.00 fresh snow was lying around the bothy but this cleared later. Welcome to May at a mere 300m! I chose not to traverse Ben Alder given the conditions, but took a lower route over the Bealach Cumhahn at 650m. The path NW from the bothy is first class but has no bridges. However, standing on the snowy bealach, peering through driving sleet, the next glen looked dire. There were peat hags, standing water and a significant main stream. Seven kilometres of very rough going later, and having waded three streams that were almost knee deep, I was relieved to reach Corrour Lodge, from which a good track leads in 4 km to Loch Ossian Youth Hostel. This Hostel is warm and friendly. It is conveniently situated a mere 14 km, 33 km, 25 km or 24 km from the nearest public road to the S, E, N, or W respectively – all across rough remote country. Alternatively, it lies only 2 km from Corrour Station. You need to bring in all your food, and carry out all your rubbish. I stayed at the Hostel, but dined out at Corrour Station House (recommended, but you need to book).
Saturday: The AAC meet assembles: me, myself, and Mike Garrett. After a very brief discussion we agreed to take a shortish, lower level route to Staoineag bothy. This avoided the two planned Corbetts, and two significant stream crossings. I later discovered that the second of these proved too much for one party that day, and gave two other parties considerable difficulties. Nevertheless, at my high point (450m) it was very wintry with driving sleet and I regretted having only lightweight waterproofs. Being a weekend, there were ten in the bothy that night. The stepping stones at the bothy were well covered (invisible), but I had approached so as to avoid the need to cross them.
Sunday: The weather was improving, and the stepping stones were now partially visible – important for me since the day’s route involved significant stream crossings. Loch Treig was still rising. Seven hours, two Corbetts and almost 900m of ascent later, I reached the public drivable track, and was lucky to get a lift, thus avoiding a further one hour plus walk out. I had had a really good day, with excellent views over many snowy hills. After a very large pot of tea, I connected with my overnight reclining seat train south, arriving home by 0830 on Monday morning.
Summary: Four days solo walking in remote Scottish hill country. The total cost was £160, including five nights accommodation and all travel and food including dining out at Corrour Station one evening and travel by train to and from Staines. I had used no planes and (almost) no cars. My pack weighed 15.5kg at the start, excluding water.
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Last updated: 01 October 2009