This Article first appeared in
AAC(UK) Newsletter 181
published Spring 2009
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Under the Volcano
by C J Hardwick
Over one ridge do I see winter rain clouds? Snow for Mt. Fuji.
Matsuo Basho 1687
Japan lies at the junction of three colliding tectonic plates that give rise to its 75 active volcanoes. These volcanoes and dormant ones like Fuji are young in geological terms but the land mass itself is much older and comprises eroded remnants of earlier tectonic activity. Mountains in Japan have always had religious significance; however, mountaineering as a sport was first popularised by the British. In particular Walter Weston explored Honshu and wrote the classic “Mountaineering and Exploration in the Japanese Alps” published in 1896. Honshu was the destination for Jim Blyth’s 2008 exotic ski tour in association with Jagged Globe; Hiro Ishisaka was our Japanese guide.
The plan was to make a ski traverse of the Northern Honshu Alps from Murodo to Kamikochi. Murodo is on a high plateau accessible by public transport. It served as our base for a couple of days’ acclimatisation. The traverse would cover 65km and required nights in five huts. However, two were unguarded so we had to carry sleeping bags, food and cooking equipment increasing our pack weight considerably. The traverse followed several ridge lines with mountain summits at around 3000m. After an easy initial day, the 2nd day had an interesting start with a steep traverse, though some of us preferred to ski down a less steep slope and climb back to the ridge on crampons. Thereafter, following an easy ascent to 2591m, there was some carrying of skis down a rocky ridge before a long but not too steep ascent of the double summit of Yakushidake. The 3rd day was more overcast; however, we had our first glimpse of the pointed Yarigatake 3180m to the south, one of the highest mountains on our itinerary. The 4th day was to be the toughest and we were away from the hut at about 03:30. Ascending the ridge to Sugoroku-dake the visibility worsened and the wind became quite strong so we turned off short of the final summit to ski down to a col before the ascent of the ridge up to the Yarigatari hut. Fortunately the wind had dropped and cloud had cleared as this ridge was the narrowest we had to climb and was heavily corniced. We often needed to don crampons and carry the skis on our backs. Because of the afternoon avalanche risk we avoided the final steep section to the hut and skied across the head wall to a less steep couloir that gave access by skinning to the col below the hut. The day took 13 hours and to some of us seemed like an involuntary initiation into Shugendo, the hardships, meditation and rituals required of mountain pilgrims.
The next day was deemed a rest day but we took the opportunity to climb Yarigatake, only a 1.5 hour round trip from the hut. It is an unusually sharp peak compared to the other mountains in the region and is very popular. While we had only seen three other people since we left Murodo, there were quite a few people climbing Yari. In summer it is much worse; so much so that there are go and return routes up the steep face that is well equipped with metal ladders and chains.
The steep valley descending from the hut to the east gives access to the broad Azusagawa river valley that runs to Kamikochi, so our traverse was essentially complete but required a 12km walk out through pine forests and bamboo grass.
We moved on south for our attempt on Fuji 3776m that last erupted in 1707, the highest mountain in Japan. It comprises a uniform cone of 30° inclination. It rises abruptly from the surrounding terrain to its great height and seemed to fill the sky so I was apprehensive as to whether I would be able to climb it. We called in at a Shinto shrine dedicated to the goddess who would throw from the mountain anyone impure of heart. To gain safe passage some of us followed the Shinto ritual: throw a coin into a box, bow twice, clap twice, bow once again, rinse hands in a nearby fountain and walk clockwise round the shrine. Mumbo jumbo perhaps though I felt easier about the following day’s exertions following the ritual.
We stayed at a guest house above the waters of Lake Yamanaka, one of the 5 lakes around Fuji. After an early breakfast we drove around the base of the volcano and commenced climbing at about 04:00. There followed several hours of skinning on the relentlessly uniform slope. Some changed to crampons as the snow was hard nevé and higher up glazed with a thin ice coating from recent rain. I tried to change over too about half way up but my lightweight crampon fixing clip broke and I continued on skis until I met up with Jim who loaned me a crampon and was able to continue himself on ski until the final steepening to 35° below the crater rim where one crampon only is sufficient for a guide! The summit was another 100m away to the north and this was soon reached on foot. The slope we had ascended was gouged by various tracks from people descending in the soft snow of afternoon. Our descent route was down the eastern flank that was further from the road head and so had not been criss-crossed by tracks and remained unspoilt. Even after midday the snow at the summit retained a hard coating of bubbly snow and our skis vibrated a lot as they slid over the surface; not a place for falling. Each turn threw off numerous small fragments of ice that accelerated down the slope creating a cacophony of rattling noises. Soon the snow had transformed to spring snow and we could ski at ease down the remainder of the 1800m descent to the road head. The afternoon was spent relaxing in a local onsen, under the volcano, gazing up at the summit, a fitting end to an unforgettable ski.
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Last updated: 06 March 2009