Mountains, Flowers & Birds
Corsica in the Spring
by Martin Haydon
During the short days of November, the thought of a week on the mountainous island of Corsica in the Mediterranean instantly appealed. Jan had already booked her place with Ros and Martin Adams who were organising their second meet to Corsica for AAC members, and I could not resist. I had mental pictures of warm sun, blue sky and sea and golden beaches. I knew it had a craggy mountain landscape and had heard the flowers and birds were particularly good.
We joined Ros, Martin and cousin Nick for the flight from Gatwick to Calvi and the adventure had begun as Jan and I struggled to find our car park. We ended up doing a ‘Tour de Gatwick’ before squeezing in minutes before the flight left. Instantly on arrival and amongst many smiling AAC friends we felt at home. Calvi airport has similarities to Salzburg, small with a back cloth of mountains. Martin Adams collected his hire car and became taxi ma n for the week, happily driving small groups around this north-west part of the island in: the mornings and then with Nick, bird watching in the afternoon. On arrival at Storrischen Esel, our OeAV owned camp just minutes from the beach near Calvi, one immediately knew we were in the Mediterranean with palm trees, agave and cacti set amongst the tastefully landscaped village.
One has to adjust to the fact that this island is French, but looks Italian and we were staying on a German speaking, Austrian owned camp where most of us spoke in English. During our very active and busy week, many scenes reminded Jan and I of Tuscany with villages clinging to craggy hillsides and red curved roof tiles glistening against the blue sky.
Ros and Martin worked tirelessly to organise and please the 30 AAC members all with diverse plans on this island of much variety. Apart from the daily ‘Taxi Martin’, we hired taxis, and two coaches for big days out into the mountains. Make a request at reception and it was done almost instantly. Each evening we gathered at the U Spelunca for a drink and to plan the next day.
Dinner was in the large restaurant on site where the food was literally magnificent in its choice, quality and service. It's not an exaggeration to say that meal times were just as important and exciting as any other part of the holiday. The standards in all respects were very high and typically Austrian - friendly.
On the first day with changeable weather (unlike the UK which was having a mini heatwave) I joined a few others to do House Mountain, Capu di a Veta 703m, which is the backdrop to the camp. Doing a circular clockwise route we strode off into the macchia or maquis. The dreaded macchia I had been warned about, was for me the big surprise of the week. Expecting carpets of scrubby heather or gorse, I was amazed and delighted to find that we were walking through tens of thousands of wonderfully scented wild flowers and shrubs. French lavender, dill taller than us, cistus, pinks and whites, yellow broom and pancratium illyricum (sea lily), so many it was difficult not to step on them, all in magnificent bloom... and ahh!, the scent. These mere hills on Corsica, take on mountain status because of their craggy terrain where scrambling is the norm. We returned via the Chapelle Notre Dame de la Serra just one of the many beautiful churches which bedeck this island and serve remind us of the island’s history.
The midweek highlight, was our coach ride to the Asco valley, which took us right into the middle of the high mountains. We chose the right day, as the sun shone and clouds rolled against snow capped summits with views of Monte Cinto, Corsica's highest seen from Haut Asco, our destination after two hours exciting motoring. Monte Cinto was not an option, being too early in the season
with thick, wet snow. Instead, we chose Punta Muvrella (A Muvrella on the map) 2148m. The climb had everything from a delightful walk through the forest until the attractive pines gave way to rock and a longish snow gulley which took us nicely to the col, Bocca di Stagnu. Four of us did a fine scramble to the craggy summit with views along the ridge to Capu di a Marcia and to the SE the snowcapped Monte Cinto. Some others took the ridge SW via Bocca Culaghia. We all finished a grand day with drinks on the hotel balcony and a stop on the way home for honey, a speciality in this valley where all the hives are made of metal. Ros had spied a Corsican nuthatch, earning her a ‘brownie point’ over fellow enthusiasts Martin and Nick who took a while before they too added it to their collection of endemic species.
Friday gave us a fitting climax to the week with hot sunny weather and coach ride to Galeria. Here a large group tackled Capu Tondu, only 839m but every bit a mountain. The guide book says 3.25 hours which is highly optimistic - we took 5.5 enjoying a half hour sunbathe on the summit admiring the splendid Golfe de Galeria. Again the flowers were magnificent with a delightful scramble to the rocky summit. Here the macchia . was tall enough to walk under. On our return we all enjoyed a refreshing drink in the local café.
The other days were filled with delights, Calvi Citadel, Lumio, the romantic high village of Sant Antonino, L’lle Rousse, Bocca di Bonassa, Ondari and Golfe di Calvi, the lost village of Occi and the delightful broom covered summit of Capu d’Occi.
On our last evening we toasted our fine chefs who thanked us for our visit. We all then thanked Ros and Martin, whose caring organisation made this all possible.
[introduction] [benefits] [activities] [membership] [members' website] [links] [everything else]
Last updated: 05 December 2008