Dreams of a White Easter fulfilled
AAC(UK) Easter Meet, 2008
by Paul Marginson
‘Crampons’, ‘cornice’, ‘kicking steps’ are terms that have lately almost disappeared from the lexicon of AAC Easter meets in northern Scotland. Having left ice axes and crampons to gather dust in the corners of chalets and bunkhouses on several previous occasions, the dreams of some two dozen club members for a white Easter were splendidly fulfilled this year. Our winter mountaineering tools were repeatedly called into action as we encountered the best winter conditions at the turn of April that anyone could recall for a decade or more. Based at Balnain, between Drumnadrochit and Cannich, we were well placed for challenging sorties into the Affric, Mullardoch and Strathfarrar hills.
“The traverse of the six 3000ft peaks that border the north side of upper Glen Strathfarrar makes a fine ridge walk” writes Storer in his 100 Best Routes on Scottish Mountains, “but one that must be accomplished against the clock, owing to access restrictions at Struy bridge.” The winter conditions we’d encounter would further add to this ‘contre-la montre’ aspect. On a clear, crisp morning with cloud still muffling the ridge, four cars and the bulk of the party had arrived at the gatehouse, which guards entry by motor traffic to the glen, a full half hour(!) before the gate was opened by its cheery custodian. Firmly reminded that the gate would be locked again at 6pm, that left nine hours for a further half hour drive each way along the glen (the dropping of one car at the return point to eliminate 6km of walking to regain the start) and the round of the six peaks.
The ridge was attained in a little over two hours, via an inviting snow ramp traversing the back of a corrie, close to the most easterly top, Sgurr na Fearstaig. We were greeted by a wintry blast from the North West, limited visibility and a vista of white lying ahead. Shortly after topping the second summit, the clouds parted and the view opened up. From then on, the route offered a sumptuous, snow clad switchback, the descents and re-ascents progressively increasing between the intervening peaks. The panorama in an arc from Torridon and Fisherfield to the North West via isolated Ben Wyvis across to the Cairngorms and Monadhliath in the south east gave a gradually changing feast for the eyes. The legs may have been tiring but the heart was wishing that this was a day that didn't have to end. Realism, however, not least in the shape of the closing of that gate, had the final say, and we descended with the inner glow of an exceptional winter's day to savour.
Similar conditions, with if anything a stiffer north westerly, prevailed two days later when several smaller groups ventured up to different points of the high level horseshoe that embraces the substantial summits of Mam Sodhail and Carn Eige. Imposing themselves on the north ridge of Glen Affric, the summit cairn on the former is formidable, having served as a key triangulation station when the area was being mapped in the late 19th century. From there the 4km ridge to Sgurr na Lapaich, rising and dipping to finally reveal the twin lochs at one's feet, provided high level relief at the end of an arduous day. Another group took advantage of the continuing good conditions, and hiked the day before into the Alltbeithe hostel (which doubles as a bothy outside the summer season), to enjoy the ascent of 'chrysanthemum', or Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan to give its proper name.
This only left the remote Mullardoch ridge. The prospect was made all the more daunting by the disappearance of the Loch Mullardoch boatman, and therefore the water transport which can bring its westernmost peaks within comfortable range. An alternative key to these, it turned out, lay through that gate at Struy, and a return with just five minutes to spare. "A long day - we didn't know if we'd make it" we said. "Aye, but you're not late" replied the cheery custodian. Smiles all round.
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Last updated: 10 September 2008