Sun, snow and wind in the Tatras
by Allan Smith
This March saw a mixed group of five members achieve a long held ambition to ski tour in the Tatra on the Polish Slovakian border. The first problem was getting there. The nearest airports are Bratislava in Slovakia or Krakow in Poland. Either way hiring a car should be considered but especially if travelling from Poland due to poor cross border transport links. The Tatras are generally divided into the West Tatra and the High Tatra and our valley base in the West Tatra was Pension Sindlovec, a delightful “chata” in the Slovakian Rohascska valley.
As snow conditions were good, despite the low altitude, we could just about put our skis on outside the front door before skinning through tracks in the forest to explore the surrounding peaks, which we did for the next two days. Although sunny there were some strong winds and we had the impression that the isolated nature of this range could cause windy conditions. Our efforts in the West Tatra culminated in Salatin 2047m and what it lacked in height it made up for in steepness. This is true for the Tatras as a whole and although considered a “lesser” range, ski tourers would be well advised to have experience with crampons and be comfortable on steep terrain.
We transferred to Strbske Pleso which was to be our base in the High Tatra. A hut to hut tour, although not impossible, would be difficult in winter due to closed huts, the terrain and not least the restrictions on crossing the Slovakian Polish border, strange since both countries are signatories to the Schengen agreement. Certain crossings are permitted and these would be useful if trekking in the summer. The advantage of Strbske is its lifts which although not extensive do offer some inexpensive downhill skiing and transport to near the Soliskom hut which we could vaguely make out through the now falling snow.
The weather was not being kind to us and our objective next day was Rysy 2499m, the highest mountain in Poland. We skirted round into the Mengusovska valley in light snow falls and it was only when we left the trees that we became aware of the strength of the wind. Higher up the valley we changed to crampons to gain a rock ledge before skinning up to the closed Rysmi hut 2250m. It was clear that the strong wind would not allow us to climb the summit ridge so we returned via the Popradske Pleso hut, stopping for a beer. (Although English is not widely spoken we never seemed to have any problems obtaining the excellent local brews).
Next day saw conditions improve which allowed us to climb up to the Zbojnicka hut from Hrebienok, before heading up to Svistovy Stit 2382m, skinning all the way. We were rewarded with excellent views of the High Tatra with Poland to the north before a great ski down (on excellent powder snow which you would be unlikely to get at this height in the Alps).
Our last day saw us skinning up from the road at Biela Voda to the Zelenom Plese hut before heading towards the Baranie col. Our original intention had been to cross this in the opposite direction but with the recent new snow it was not advised. Indeed the climb in deep snow convinced us of the wisdom of this. The ski down, in particular the ‘couloir’ was an exciting end to an excellent week.
Thanks to all who attended and especially our guide, Jurai Trstan.
Postscript. Letter to the Editor, Winter 2009 Newsletter (180)
from Ann Clark
Having just enjoyed reading the article in the last Newsletter about Skiing in the Tatras Mountains, I thought you might like an update on travel in the Tatras.
At the end of August and beginning of September this year a few friends and I were walking in both the Polish and Slovakian sides of this mountain range. We had no difficulty travelling between the two countries, as there is a twice daily bus from Zakopane to Poprad. Although it is worth noting that payment is in Polish zloty in both countries. The towns at the foot of the Slovakian Tatra are connected by an excellent train service which is remarkably inexpensive especially for the over 70’s. The footpaths are all well way marked and the maps available everywhere are easy to read and match the colour coding of the foot-paths. There was no shortage of mountain refuges offering food, drink and accommodation, although we stayed in hotels which were well appointed and comfortable.
As to difficulty crossing from one country to the other, we travelled without even slowing down at the border and certainly in the summer there would no problem crossing.
Websites to look at are
www.tatryinfo.eu
www.tatratours.com
www.mapytatr.net
www.perkoz.lublin.pl
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Last updated 05 December 2008