This Article first appeared in
AAC(UK) Newsletter 177
published Spring 2008
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Last updated 20 March 2008
Tea and Cakes in the Ötztal
by Julia Wilson and Steve Lee
It became something of a ritual. On reaching the hut after a day’s walking we would order a litre of teewasser and portions of the local kuchen, to be enjoyed with views over glaciers to the high peaks beyond; perfect endings to days in the high Alps. We had joined a Ramblers Holidays group of AAC members on a hutting tour in the Ötztal region of Austria in July 2007. It was a small group, just ourselves and four others with a Rambler’s leader. All of the party knew others in the group from before or had met them on previous adventures in the Alps, making a friendly and relaxed team. We started the tour at Obergurgl, and after a night at the Pension Waldesruhe climbed nearly 1000m to the Hochwildehaus. By spending two nights here we were able to cross the Gurgler glacier and ascend Annakogel 3336m, not a difficult route apart from an awkward bergschrund crossing.
Our second hut was the Ramolhaus perched dramatically at just over 3000m above the Gurgl valley, and below the Ramoljoch, whose mini klettersteig gave access to the route to our next hut, the Martin Busch.
Steve had been here in 1982, when the glaciers and snow fields were noticeably larger than they are today. A favourite crevasse rescue practice area on the Marzell glacier had completely gone. We stayed at the Martin Busch for three nights to allow two day walks. The first of these was to the Tisenjoch where “Ötzti”, the 5000 year old ice man, was discovered in 1991. Later in the holiday the warden at the Brandenburgerhaus told us that he had passed the very spot with his father just a month before the find, and Ötzi must still have been under the snow. On the following day the air was crystal clear, and we climbed the Kreuzspitze 3457m and were treated to amazing views in all directions, probably the best we have ever had in the Alps.
After dropping down to the village of Vent to re-stock supplies, the next night was spent at the Vernagthütte, memorable for the plum tart. Our route continued via the Hochjoch Hospitz to the Gasthof Schöne Aussicht on the Italian border. This was the most comfortable hut of the tour, and probably the best food. After a night at the Oberetteshütte, and a bus journey to avoid a high traverse that was above the holiday grade, we reached our favourite Weißkugelhütte. Its situation is brilliant, facing huge glaciers flowing down from the Weißkugel itself. It was so friendly and hospitable, that the rather cramped sleeping accommodation was no problem. Steve particularly liked the lemon drizzle cake, but Julia was more interested in the free hot shower. Above the hut is a worthwhile half day walk and scramble to Schmied, although the summit proper is a rock climb. Our final day comprised a long but interesting walk back into Austria and down to the Gespatchhaus, from where the bus collected us for the transfer back to Innsbruck the following morning. Overall we had an excellent holiday, a good leader, good company, good weather, and excellent tea and cakes.
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Last updated: 20 March 2008