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A volunteer is sought to assume complete editorial control of the Club’s quarterly Newsletter from the end of 2011, soliciting content, selecting that which is most appropriate, liaising with our proof-reader and interfacing directly with the graphics designer who takes care of layout. If this challenge is of genuine interest to you, please contact the Club Secretary via the AAC(UK) Office for further details.  

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Two Monts Blanc!

by Jane McGuire

It all began in Austria when Val Machin and I met on an AAC Basic Alpine Skills Course at the Braunschweiger Hut in the summer of 1999, and again on the Gross Glockner meet the following year. But the years were passing and Mont Blanc still taunted us so we laid our plans early in 2007, not knowing that the summer weather was going to be the wettest for a long time. So it was that on a late July Sunday we were basking in the alpine sunshine, at the Cabane des Dix 2928m, above Arolla. We were awaiting the arrival of Sam, our local guide from near Sion in the valley of Valais. The superb sculpted north face of Mont Blanc de Cheilon was directly opposite this wonderfully situated hut, perched up above the confluence of two glaciers.

Sam had both good and bad news for us. The weather forecast for the next few days was promising but the railway service to the usual start of the normal route to the summit of Mont Blanc had been put out of action by a landslide. By starting at the top of the Bellevue téléphérique, we would have an extra 600m to ascend, 2000m to the Refuge, instead of 1400m.

We had first to prepare. Being almost the last party away from the Cabane des Dix the following morning, the cloud lurking beyond the Col de Cheilon was disheartening but we made good time and barely paused when we caught up with the many guideless ropes on the col which were awaiting someone to lead the way. Sam accelerated up the snow slope, and with wind and cloud increasing he led us quickly and smoothly along the summit ridge of Mont Blanc de Cheilon 3869m. The view disappeared as we reached the top. We were only the third and last rope to make it to the top that day. The strong wind behind us, together with our high spirits, helped us to overtake the disappointed earlier birds on the way down. A warm welcome and good food awaited us at the almost empty hut as the weather closed in.
The next day we were unable to continue with Sam’s acclimatisation plan, the Pigne d’Arolla, due to a light covering of snow and verglas. Instead we went back down to the valley and directly on towards the sunshine of Chamonix but still fulfilling our own preparation plan of an hour in the thermal baths of Saillon en route!
The next two days were probably the best of the summer with not a cloud in the sky. It all went like a dream and still feels like one now. We took our first breather after two hours at the Nid d’Aigle station, a poignant reminder that normally
summit attempts start here. Always smiling, Sam ploughed on with his two determined ladies behind him across the renowned Grand Couloir with its threat of rock fall and up the long ridge, negotiating any snarl ups with ease and authority. There was most of the afternoon left for us to relax, amidst the activity and anticipatory atmosphere of the Goûter Hut, before a short and sleepless night.

Up and out in the dark, crampon-shod, we climbed steadily to the summit, reaching it in just four hours, shortly after sunrise. There was only a handful of others sharing our enjoyment and satisfaction of being there, and to take our photo of course. We were able to spend about fifteen minutes in our own peaceful contemplation of the view of so many well known alpine peaks and beyond into more distant Europe!

During an easy and relaxed descent back to the Goûter Hut and beyond, we watched a helicopter circling above, boding ill for someone. Indeed, despite our ease, enjoyment and glorious conditions it was sobering to know that seven people died on the Mont Blanc Massif during our time there. Our sympathies were also with those at the refuge, clearly suffering from altitude sickness, and with the guide whose boots had been stolen. Fortunately, for Val and I back down in the valley after our 3000m of sun-drenched descent, a beer had never tasted so good.  Cheers Val!

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Last updated 20 March 2008