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The Path Not Taken, Alte Vie Two, September 2007
by John Howarth
Alte Vie 2 is longer and in several steep places harder than Alte Vie 1. The latter, I would suggest, is a very good introduction to the Dolomites for walkers rather than scramblers. However AV2 is a really good mixture of fine walking, assisted climbing and, for some, 3000m peak bagging along the way.
Bressanone is a delightful start town with the choice of a cable car ride or a 6 hour walk up to the first hut, Rifugio Plose. From there the next three days were full of good scenery and relatively straightforward walking via Rifs Genova and Puez up to Rif Pisciadu. This is where the fun started as we woke up to 4 inches of snow and what looked like a difficult climb to start the day. We delayed our take off and watched three parties of young men slowly blaze the trail up the path to the assisted gully. They didn't come back so we followed and, as is so often the case, things were not as difficult under foot as had appeared.
The day ended at our highest point so far 2873m at Rif. Boe, wonderfully and tantalisingly situated directly below the summit of Piz Boe 3152m. However the short path up from the hut proved too icy and we had to leave our ascent until the following day. Next came Rif. Del Pan; what luxury, hot water and comfy beds and it boasts a grandstand view of Marmolada.
A contouring 8 miles brought us to the base of Marmolada at Rif. Cima, where a very good WW1 museum is based. As the over the top' option had been ruled out the group split into two. Some took a taxi to Malga Ciapela then had a hard 5 hour walk/climb up path 610 to Rif. Contrin. The others had a pleasant walk down the valley and round the west side of Marmolada up Val de Contrin on the easy path 602.
The penultimate day started with a stiff climb to where the WW1 Italian and Austrian soldiers faced each other. What a desolate place to lose one's life! Down the other side was a gigantic scree slope and whilst we were zig-zagging down, amazingly we watched a local running up!
The last hut was private, a very pleasant Rif. Flora Alpina. It was not possible to continue further south due to early hut closures, understandable as in three of the huts we had been the only customers. So anyone wishing to do all of AV2 should set off in the first week of September. It is a wonderful two weeks and the constant change of scenery and terrain is a joy.
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Last updated: 13 December 2007