This Article first appeared in
AAC(UK) Newsletter 176
published Winter 2007
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Last updated 13 December 2007
The Ascent of Mount Elbrus
by Michael Hetherton
When I reached the summit of Mt Blanc, some years ago I told folk back in the UK that I had reached the highest point in Europe. Not so, I realised some years later, and I resolved to climb Mt Elbrus 5642m in the Caucasus but I couldn't find any of the adventure holiday firms keen to go, due to political and safety concerns.
Earlier this year I was fortunate to be introduced by a friend to an Irish group heading out to the mainly friendly Baksan Valley in Southern Russia to attempt the mountain. We were met out there by a local Russian guide, Sasha, who stayed with us for all 11 days of our trip, ironing out any minor problems we encountered.
We spent the first two days doing four to five hour acclimatisation walks up to 2900m, enjoying beautiful mountain scenery, before heading up the lower slopes of Elbrus to spend six days on the mountain in ever higher huts, (well barrels for two of the nights which were surprisingly comfortable).
Despite a less than favourable forecast, our summit day, starting at 4.00am from the highest hut, proved fine and cold with rock hard snow to the summit, which I reached at 10.40am, encountering no real difficulties apart from altitude sickness. Crampons were necessary but I could have managed without my ice axe and would have preferred my 'leki sticks'. After 50 minutes admiring the superb view we descended on rapidly softening snow which became slushy by mid afternoon when we reached the hut. I can thoroughly recommend the Baksan Valley as an excellent mountain area.
My next trip will hopefully be to the New Zealand Alps in mid December to attempt Mt Cook with my son Bill. Anyone want to join us?
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Last updated: 13 December 2007