This Article first appeared in
AAC(UK) Newsletter 176
published Winter 2007

Queue on the VF Brigata Tridentina
Photo by Malcolm Imhoff

Tom Astbury on the Marmalada
Photo by Malcolm Imhoff

Ascending the Marmalada
Photo by Malcolm Imhoff

Marmalada Summit Party
Photo by Malcolm Imhoff

Evening at the campsite
Photo by Tish Woulds

An intersting 'Knight's Move'
Photo by John Steer

Last updated: 11 July 2008

A Multi-Activity Alpine Holiday for All

by Mel Owen

The enjoyment of traversing as many Tyrolean summits as possible in an Austrian Alpine holiday is undoubtedly best achieved by hut touring, which is why this type of activity has always been so justifiably popular in our Club. In other parts of the Alps, valley-based options are often preferred. The tradition in the Chamonix valley, for example, is to ascend from the valley to a high hut in order to both achieve a particular summit and return to the valley the following day.

Using a fixed valley base is also advantageous in many parts of the Italian Dolomites, where it is very easy to cherry-pick the very best classic rock climbs, summits and vie ferrate by easy day trips from the road, often aided by ski lifts. This was the concept behind the Club’s July/August 2007 Dolomites meet, where both weeks were based at comfortable well-appointed camp-sites, the first week at Campitello di Fassa, the second at Cortina d’Ampezzo, with members being put in touch with each other to fill cars with kit and drive out. [Those living in Kent might be interested to learn that the 800 mile drive from the Channel to Cortina takes no longer than the 700 mile drive to Dundonnel in Scotland] This formula gave members the flexibility to choose their own activities on a daily basis, something that is hardly possible with the inevitable constraints of a pre-planned hut tour. The intention had been to provide an opportunity for families to load up their cars and drive out for a relatively cheap camping holiday, where the younger members could be given their first introduction to the Alpine experience. The youngest member present, 13, tried everything, mountain biking, bagging classic multi-pitch rock climbs with his Dad, was undaunted tackling even the hardest Vie Ferrate available, and had a great time!.

Although as many as 16 members supported each week, we never had more than 9 in any one mountain group due to the wide variety of excursion options available. Each evening in the valley we socialised together, swapped notes and planned the following day. The Vie Ferrate proved to be the most popular activity, enabling us to reach splendid summits via really steep and imposing faces, safely protected by the excellent steel cables provided. During each week we worked up from Grade 3B to the highest grade, 5C, making it a most challenging and satisfying meet, and highly to be recommended to all who have yet to try this activity. One of the most memorable highlights was a traverse of the Marmalada, the highest Dolomites summit, with crampons being needed to cross glaciers on both the approach to the Via Ferrata and on the long glacial descent. If you would like to see more meets like this, the answer is in your own hands – you must organise them! Every meet in our program is only there because an ordinary member, just like you, seized the initiative and organised it.

Postscripts, additional to the Newsletter Article

If you are an experienced UK scrambler with a good head for heights and would like to know a little more about Via Ferratas before committing yourself, you might find our Klettersteigs page informative..

The main party achieved the following programme during the fortnight:

22 July	Via Ferrata Oscar Schuster (Sasso Piatto)	3B
23 July	Via Ferrata Brigata Tridentina (aka Klettersteig Pisciadu)	3B
24 July	Via Ferrata dei Finanzieri (Colac)	3C
25 July	Via Ferrata delle Mesules (aka Klettersteig Possnecker)	4C
26 July	Via Ferrata Marmalada West Ridge	4C
27 July	Via Ferrata Cesare Piazzetta (Piz Boe)	5C
28 July	Via della Trincee (La Mesola)	4B
29 July	Via Ferrata Ettore Bovero (Col Rosa)	3B
30 July	Via Ferrata Michielli Strobel (Punta Fiammes)	3B
31 July	Via Ferrata Merlone (Cima del Cadin de NE)	3B
1 Aug	Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella (Tofana de Rozes)	4C
2 Aug	Via Ferrata Tomaselli (Punta Sud)	5C

Brief respite between steep sections
Photo by Mel Owen

Via Ferrata Merlone ladder section
Photo by John Steer

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Last updated: 11 July 2008

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