Huayhuash Trek, Peru
by Jeffrey and Julia Banks
The trek was organised in summer 2006 for the AAC group by member, Ann Clark, using ‘High Places’ and tour leader, Stewart Wellings. Local Huarez guide, Nestor Morales, of Pyramid Adventures, led us round the Huayhuash circuit in a clockwise direction, with variations to get closer to the big mountains. At the end a party extended with the Inca Trail and another small group attempted to climb Alpamayo. In addition a second AAC group with member Val Machin leading did the same trek
The acclimatisation programme was excellent, after walks from Huarez and Llamac gradually reaching 4500m, we were ready for the trek and 12 consecutive days over 4000m. At first we encountered cold winds and rain with snow at Punta Cacanan, the Pacific-Atlantic watershed and another pass, Yarapunta, where we stopped to enjoy what was to become the customary cup of coca tea at rest stops. As we drank we watched, spellbound, as the mist slowly cleared from the high summits of Jirishanca, Yerapuja, the highest mountain in the Huayhuash, 6617m, and Suila Grande. The views of these mountains from different angles were to accompany us throughout as the weather settled.
Our team consisted of Nestor, Rodolfo, an aspirant guide, cooks, 4 arrieros or donkey men and 27 donkeys. After bed tea and breakfast we would set off very steadily, leaving the team to clear up and load the donkeys, which would later come trotting past. At the rear would be the ‘ambulance’ horse, carrying flasks of tea and lunch, but fortunately never required for us. Occasionally there would be a ‘donkey jam’ at tricky passages but often the donkeys would take an easier route, as when we climbed steeply to Suila Punta, 4834m, past three beautiful lakes, each a different shade of blue, nestling beneath steep rock walls, glaciers and snowy summits.
The Cordillera Huayhuash has become well known because of the book and film ‘Touching the Void’. After crossing back to the west side of the watershed via two impressive 5000m passes, we arrived at Suila Grande base camp, and walked beyond it to a viewpoint at 4566m overlooking Laguna Sarapococha, where some of the filming was done. It was a superb position with stunning views up the glacier to the fluted faces of Yerapuja Sur and Sarapo and of the extremely rough terrain over which Joe Simpson had crawled with his broken leg.
The natural beauty of the area is enhanced by a great range of flora; various gentians, gentianella, furry cacti, red mistletoe, a rare valerian and slopes of heady-scented lupins. The bird life is also abundant with several sightings of condors, caracara, black ibis and Andean geese. Of animals, only one vicuna was spotted, but viscacha, resembling rabbits with long squirrel-like tails, were frequently seen hopping about the rocks like bolder marmots. The area is also of great geological interest with many different rock types and formations; red and black sandstone, seams of coal, huge limestone walls and once a whole pile of ammonites.
The area is sparsely populated but, between the main villages, we came across a few isolated thatched dwellings where it was good to chat to the local people. Communities were sometimes fenced off with a locked gate where trekking charges were levied according to the number of trekkers and number of donkeys that would be grazing the pampas.
Our last high campsite at Jahuacocha felt positively balmy at a mere 4000m and, for the first time, we became conscious of other trekking groups. From here we made our ascent of Cerro Amarillo, so named for the gold in its rocks and brightly coloured red, orange and pale yellow screes which pour down both sides of the summit ridge. After a steep plod up, a delightful scramble led along this ridge. The views were stunning and provided a suitable climax to our trek. True to form, our gallant team had carried up lunch!
Time to tell of some of the gastronomic delights of the trip; fresh trout from the lakes served with white wine, avocado páte and chicken dishes from our own, steadily diminishing flock. For our end of trek meal back in Llamac, we had a pachamanca, for which two sheep had been slaughtered. Cooked with sweet potatoes in an earth oven in the garden of our head arriero, it was delicious. On our return to Huarez, via a detour to view the phenomenal giant bromeliad, Puya Raimondi, we had another festive communal meal before the group split, some to return to the UK, some to follow the Inca Trail and some to attempt another peak.
Six of us flew on to Cuzco. After exploring this beautiful town with its churches, streets, squares and Inca ruins, we set off on the 4-day Inca Trail. This was very busy compared to the Huayhuash trek but rest and lunch spots and campsites had been carefully chosen to avoid the hordes. On the third day, thanks to good planning, we had the trail to ourselves, the real ancient Inca road, a prodigious engineering feat. The day ended with a thousand metres of descent on steep steps.
On the last day we rose at 4.00am to reach the ‘Gate of the Sun’ at dawn. From here we had our first view of Machu Picchu and reached the site just as the first rays of the sun lit it. We had a tour and then explored. Returning by train and bus to Cuzco, so ended an excellent month of fine mountains, history, fun and good company.
Three of us had decided to climb Alpamayo, 5947m, in the Cordillera Blanca, the ‘most beautiful mountain in the world’. Acclimatised after the trek, our 2-day walk to base camp was through granite scenery quite different from Huayhuash. Our camp was at 5200m, below the southwest face and the route dropped into a glacier basin and then ascended to an awe-inspiring bergschrund. After a couple of pitches of ice up the fluted face we were worried that we were not going well enough to reach the summit that day. We disappointedly abseiled down but were glad to have attempted an attractive and challenging mountain.
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Last updated: 04 December 2007