This Article first appeared in
AAC(UK) Newsletter 173
published Spring 2007
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Last updated 04 December 2007
Alpine Adventure 2006
by David Cunningham
Last year we decided for the first time to do a S day wilderness trek in the Austrian Stubai Alps, (Map Alpenverein series No. 31/2). Previous family hikes have been in Scotland and the Lake District The trek involved some major planning as there would be no roads or human habitation on the way, only the very occasional mountain hut for night accommodation and evening meal. Hence, we carried breakfasts, lunches and equipment for five days, and researched a suitable 'family' route. While not cheap, breakfasts could be bought in the huts. Although not essential, I took a GPS, set on latitude and longitude, which proved accurate and useful in determining ascent and descent seemingly more critical than plan distance.
We commenced our trek from the Dortmunder Hut, 1949m, and soon had to overcome our first navigational challenge in sussing out that the two small lakes on our route had become one, thanks to a recently built dam It was lovely to see wild alpine flowers everywhere, with dramatic views continuing to open up as we climbed. Some scrambling was eventually involved, including a few 'airy' ledges. However, our children, Ben 11 and Holly 9, rose to the challenge and were rewarded with fantastic views on reaching the first high pass, Finstertaler Scharte, 2779m, with air noticeably thin. As everywhere, the routes were well marked with small blobs of paint every 50 metres or so, and after one short thunder plump, (no lightning fortunately), and several marmot sightings, we reached the Guben-Schweinfurter Hut, 2028m, and apple strudel. We spent the night singing folk songs with a band of German climbers; a hut in full swing is a sight to behold.
It rained most of the next day, the only day it rained, as we set off along the river valley, up rough paths to the top of our highest pass, Zwiselbachjoch 2870m. Ben collected a glacier ice sample and announced he would refreeze it when we get back home! The children were quite tired at the top but did excellently, especially considering the altitude. We had to cross several large snow-fields on the way down, with me going first as the heaviest and least important! The scenery looked pre-historic and magnificent with many rock walls, buttresses and glaciers. We also passed some spectacular waterfalls, before finally spotting the Winnebachsee Hut, 2361m, in the most splendid setting you could imagine at the confluence of several valleys, with its own small lake and colossal waterfall. Everyone rushed in for cake while I spent the next half-hour wringing out wet gear.
After a rest day here, pottering around the local area, we set off armed with extra supplies of chocolate, past a beautiful lake in glorious sunshine. However, the going got tougher as we entered a huge boulder field which continued up to the next high pass, Winnebachjoch 2788m, and occasional markers were the only indication of where the path was. However, we did see a herd of wild mountain goats and our first walker out in the open! A smoother path appeared in the high Alpine pastures on the other side of the pass, which eventually led to the Westfalenhaus, 2276m. This was yet again in a glorious setting, and Holly made an Austrian pen friend with the hut warden's daughter.
Next day we reluctantly set off on our final descent to Praxmar, which was nevertheless extremely enjoyable as we followed rushing melt waters down through flower strewn meadows. We all enjoyed the adventure, with each hut being truly hospitable, each with its own unique character, and the evening meals were fantastic. Incidentally, Ben's glacial ice can be viewed in our freezer at home for a small fee.
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Last updated: 04 December 2007