Corsica, the Mountains in the Sea
by Christina Crowther
Nearly thirty AAC Members and a few guests spent a week in Corsica in September 2006, organised by Ros and Martin Adams. The venue was a holiday camp, ‘The Stubborn Donkey’, run by the Austrian travel agent Rhomberg in conjunction with the OeAV Sektion Dornbirn, in Vorarlberg. The camp is situated just outside Calvi on the northwestern coast of Corsica, a good starting point for a dual programme of mountain trips and less arduous birdwatching and sight seeing.
‘Mountains in the Sea’ is a most fitting description of the landscapes of Corsica and conjures up an exciting image. Each evening we assembled in ‘U Spelunca’, the camp’s bar and general meeting place and discussed the programme. A nine-seater mini-bus and taxis were available to ferry people to and from various starting points. We all settled into a nice routine, meeting for drinks in the evening and exchanging adventures before attacking the dinner buffet, which offered a vast amount of really delicious food for all tastes. Some members were even seen to devour three main courses!
For the walkers and climbers a variety of walks in the craggy mountains was on offer, the highlight being the ascent of Monte Cinto, at 2706m, the highest mountain on the island. Arriving in the second week in September, we expected warm weather but were met with exceptional heat, at least for the first three days. The first climb up to Capu di a Veta, a 700m ascent from sea level, proved a sweaty and prickly affair, the path winding its way up through the maquis, in full sun and requiring a few rocky scrambles in order to reach the col leading to the granite summit. We were rewarded by splendid views over Calvi and indeed the whole northwest tip of the island with beautiful turquoise bays down the west coast and sandy beaches on the north. After a walk in the woods the following day from the forest hotel in Bonifatu, 500m, half an hour‘s drive from the camp, along a part of the ‘Mare e Monte’ trail to the Bocca di Bonassa, 1300m, we were ready to take on Monte Cinto.
Unfortunately the weather forecast was for thunderstorms and the original, more ambitious plans had to be curtailed. Instead a small group started out on Mt. Cinto and a second group went up to the Cirque de Solitude, 2230m, on the GR 20. The former required a fair bit of scrambling and revealed splendid views of the summit and neighbouring mountains but had, regrettably, to be abandoned due to gathering mists and warnings by local climbers that the weather might be getting nasty. It gave us a taste of what climbing in Corsica can be like as did the climb on the GR 20, definitely hands on stuff!
The huts in Corsica are basic with limited facilities, food is seldom provided and a decent wash only to be had in the few hotels which are accessible where the trail crosses a mountain road. The reward is an unspoilt mountain area with dramatically steep gorges and craggy peaks which form bizarre shapes looming up into the sky and turning pink in the sunset.
The rainy morning the following day did not deter a small group from walking up to the Rifugio de Carrozzu, 1270m, one of the huts on the GR 20, accessible from the Bonifatu forest. Just beyond it is the Spasimata Hanging Bridge
Parallel to the mountain programme, Martin chauffeured his group to the beauty spots accessible from Calvi and, knowing the island from many previous visits, was able to select the most interesting routes and stopping places. These included Montemaggiore and the village of St. Antonio, Haut Asco, the Fango Valley and the Restonica Gorge, surely the most spectacular valleys and gorges on the island. Walks through old villages high up in the hills and in the Bonifatu forest were also included, as was a walk along the coastal path between Ile Rousse and Calvi. The small train, very ancient and seemingly decrepit but much used, was useful for picking up weary members from coastal walks and dropping them off five minutes walk from the camp.
Unsettled windy weather did not stop the majority of the group from taking a planned boat trip round the northernmost tip of the island and down the west coast to enjoy unspoilt views with many caves, stacks, rugged cliffs and the magnificent Scandola Nature Reserve. With a force six gale blowing, this was quite an adventure!
Apart from a slight change of plans due to the weather everything went to schedule. All the participants, climbers, walkers and cyclists, had a really good week. Great thanks are due to Ros and Martin.
The camp has over 50 bungalows; singles, doubles and for families, all equipped with small patios and ensuite bedrooms. Spacious tents for up to 5 people can also be rented. The camp organises all the trips we did with guides and mountain guides where necessary. It also has its own swimming pool and is 10 minutes walk from the beach. All communication is in German.
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Last updated 04 December 2007